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“please sir, may i have some more” – oliver twist July 16, 2009

Posted by Halai in food.
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i like to eat. more specifically i love to eat. eating is one of those fundamentally glorious objectives our supreme creator has given humanity. and we get to do it three times a day, every day. the best part is with the diversity in the indo-subcontinent, we get to eat foods that no other culture on the planet could even dream about. forget bobby flay and gordon ramsay, they ain’t got nothing on chef zakir.

pakistani food in it’s various forms is an art, almost. there’s different ways of cooking each dish. even a simplistic breakfast can overturn into a lavish feast of paya, nihari, lassan anda, goat cheese spreads, maal-poora’s,  malai and some halwa puri and channa. the advantage we have is that the diversity in the history of our cultures is so rich, we have inherited all of the diaspora of food and are now getting to enjoy it. feel like food from lucknow, or delhi, or hyderabad or peshawar, it’s all available within a fifteen minute drive usually.

historically the reason for our foods being so diverse are generally geographic. with such a vast climate across the sub-continent, preparation of foods have different requirements. for example, the further south you get, karachi, delhi etc., the spicier foods get because spices were used as a preservative to prevent spoilage in warmer climates. the further north and west you get, you have a drier, cooler climate with a hotter sun and you have drier palates and ease of cooking things like sajji’s and other such delicacies which are generally a bit blander with more garnishings.

come today, ask a karachiite where the best bbq in town is. any of the kids in clifton and defence will scream out bbq tonight without giving a second thought.  too bad they will never experience going to bundoo khan’s and sharing a meal with stray cats. too bad they will never get to go to al-hamra’s. too bad they will never go to billy’s. too bad they will never go to meerath. too bad they will never go to usmania. too bad they will never go to noorani kebab house. too bad they will never go to kaybee’s. it’s just too bad. all these locations are institutions now. there are hundreds more out there.

but anyway since we’re talking about bbq food, i just remembered a fundamental difference between karachiite’s eating bbq and everyone else eating bbq food (lahori’s to be specific because they like to think they’re everyone else). take something as simple as a kebab or a chicken tikka. ask a karachiite how he’ll eat it, and 99 times out of 100 he’ll ask for a paratha. ask a lahori how he’ll eat it, and 100 times out of 100, he’ll ask for a naan. i don’t get it. why do lahori’s deprive themselves of the fine delicacy that is a paratha. (another thing i don’t get, what’s up with not eating kebab roll’s? why is it such an alien concept?)

since i’m rambling incoherently now without any sort of structure to this post, might as well add, no one family or person makes a dish the same. something like haleem for example can be made out of daal for one family, only meat for another, only gayhoon for another and a mixture of all of the above for another.

one thing is for sure, pakistani food is diverse and as exotic as it gets. don’t take it for granted. just the fact that we have some of the best forms of bread in the world makes for  good conversation with your gora buddies. nothing like eating an ultay tavay ki roti or a makai ki roti or a sheermaal or a taaftaan or a patra of karak roti or some wonderful meetha bun from the local bakery. by the way, the kids who’ve never gone out to buy bread in their life aside from dawn bread from agha’s really need to step in and browse the selection at their local bakery. ask your dad/driver where it is.

Comments»

1. hemlock - July 16, 2009

clearly, im the only maniac who reads your blog. or bothers to comment.

bundu khan rocks. man, bundu khan brings down the house.
and lahoris eat bbq with ROGHNI naan.
it’s JUST like a paratha, only BETTER.
ya’salaam.

im hungry.
mirchi in lahore used to have the best roghni naans. well, almost, almost as good as bundu khan’s.
LUSH naans.

here in dubai we have this place – the only place that serves sheermaal – and they have what they call gola kebabs. meat that melts in your mouth-and is wrapped in thread. i have no idea how it’s done, but it’s the best meat dish i have ever had, and this coming from someone who doesnt like meat to begin with.

2. Xill-e-Ilahi - July 16, 2009

we call it dhaga kabab. for us gola kabab (waheed’s gola kabab especially) is a morph between lucknow style galawat ke kabab and what is known in certain places as keema fry. thats good too.

roghni nans are not better than parathas. they’re way too heavy and restrict your intake of the meat. which kinda misses the point.

but they have their merits.

3. Mystic - July 16, 2009

kinda sad how u are absolutely sure people in defence and clifton would never experience those places! maybe those are the people you’ve encountered perhaps but i for one would travel as many times as is needed to the so-called other side of the bridge for either waheed’s gola kababs or nihari or bundoo khan ke seekh kabab or meerath ki boti (i swear those are the softest boties u can ever have!) or ghaffar ke malai tikkay or the “bunss” road ki rabri and kaybees ki icecream! even the places tht have opened up outlets in defence and clifton just dont have the same taste as the ones in their original locations..oh and as for the kabab rolls, i dont think i’ll ever forget silver spoon!! or there used to be this place at boat basin called mezban!

4. Mystic - July 16, 2009

and cant forget tooso!!

sorry..food talk kinda gets me hyper :D

5. Hafsa - July 18, 2009

on the subject of breads, how could you forget papay?!! if they do fall in that category, i.e. fancy bakery kay papay are the best. even fareed bakery in sharfabad isn’t too bad.
as for gola kabab, we always get them from ‘mamoo kabab walay’. not sure about the location of his eatery though. one of the best chicken tikka i’ve had is at khairabad, right at the tip of i.i. chundrigar.

6. Saeed - July 19, 2009

I have to agree with Abbas (Xill) about roghnis being heavy. But they’re welcome for a change. Howcome all these places weren’t there while I lived in the uae….back then my fav was daily restaurant’s Bihari kebab.

7. Mystic - July 19, 2009

@ Saeed

that’s still pretty much the only place (daily restaurant i mean) though others have opened up..above we are just reminiscing about the places in khi..we can only wish they were here in the uae!

8. Xill-e-Ilahi - July 19, 2009

@ hafsa: ahh yes. papay. my god. we forgot jalebis, samosas and chaat. shamsoo’s chaat from garden. i’m about to cry.

@ mystic: yaar, to their credit, ravi and kabab rolls try to give the authentic paki experience in the uae too. obviously they’re not as good as back home but a drowning man will grasp at straws…

9. Mystic - July 19, 2009

well yeah and in no way am i denying that! am happy to get my hands on whatever i can..and actually, i happened to have bihari kababs today in international city from this place called the Kabab Masala Restaurant..again quite obviously not as good as back home but still not bad given they had chapatis and pooris and parathas to go along with it :)

10. bohemian - July 19, 2009

kebab rolls
*heart*
*heart attack*

11. Saeed - July 20, 2009

@ Mystic – I couldn’t talk of Khi (havent really explored that city yet), so I talked of the UAE, surprised at Hemlock’s mentioning all those places in the UAE.

12. let bygones be bygones « The rain on your parade - August 27, 2009

[...] try and cover food first, because, as i mentioned before, i love to eat, and i always have. now let’s get one thing clear, i grew up in clifton. most [...]

13. Bob Merkin - August 29, 2009

Be kind and generous to The Great Occidental Unwashed — post a couple of your favorite recipes!!!

I’ve had lots of delicious fun with a cookbook called “Asia’s Undiscovered Cuisine” — but I could use any help I can get.

14. adeel - September 16, 2009

I’m find myself kinda surprizingly agreeing about Lahoris and no-paratha-with-bbq thingie. I thought they (we?!) ate all possible combinations of food items.

15. billig telephonieren - August 6, 2011

I just learned very much informations from your article. Thanks!!

16. HanaPipers - February 7, 2012
17. Saleem Ahmed - May 7, 2012

hey can you let me know the name of that restaurant in Dubai which serves gola kabab and it will be great if you can post the address as well. Many Thanks


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